Experience working in the fashion industry can be a valuable stepping stone toward starting your own business producing sewn products, however, even with no prior experience, an entrepreneur's knowledge of the target market is the first key to success. Most small entrepreneurs are part of the group they target, allowing them to innately gravitate toward correct product and marketing choices. Small businesses must aim for a target market with laser accuracy in order to compete with large brands that offer generic styling. Outlined here are several basic steps that aspiring fashion entrepreneurs would do well to consider with emphasis on the women's modest apparel market in the United States.
Design Beautiful Clothing
You may already have in mind styles of clothing that will contribute value to the market. Keep that dream alive and nourish it. As you design, consider the following factors:
- Pick Pretty Colors - Some studies have suggested that color is at the top among features that attract customers toward clothing purchases. Trends rotate among darks, lights, neutrals, and bold colors, and different target groups prefer some colors and combinations over others. Whatever you choose to do, keep in mind that beautiful colors, or at least less-offensive colors according to your customers preferences, are most likely to stand out among brands.
- Design for Wearability - Creativity is good, and so is moderation. Eccentric design may be entertaining, but when it comes to women purchasing and wearing clothing, they generally appreciate designs that are comfortable and not overly embellished. Study couture designers throughout history and notice how often utterly simple lines are used. Tight clothing is usually not comfortable. Give your customer room to move in your designs, and subdue the designs so that the wearer "owns" the clothing rather than the clothing overpowering the wearer.
- Welcome the Casual Factor - Clothing trends around the world have been following a path toward casual as we head toward the 2030s. Challenge yourself to create at least a few casual, understated designs in whatever clothing category you have chosen to target, and seek feedback from potential customers. You may be surprised how often a casual look wins out over a more formal one.
- Consider Trends - Leaving behind the old and welcoming the new is one of life's harder lessons. We grow comfortable with what we have known in the past. Professional designers work to overcome this inertia and expand their fluidity to change. For a designer wishing to target a customer base looking for relative modesty in apparel, some silhouettes cannot be adapted, however, many trends such as color and line are adaptable. The clothing market in the United States is wide open with opportunity for clothing that not only provides a bit more coverage than usual but that is also modernized.
Inform Design with Business Structure
Technical decisions must be made as part of building a workable clothing business plan. Though technical considerations may seem secondary to great design, they actually provide a framework to guide design. By working through size range, marketing structure, fabric selection and other issues first, the target for design comes into focus.
One of the first technical decisions is choosing a size range to target. The cost of creating patterns in different size ranges calls for small entrepreneurs to launch with a size range that can be graded (drawn larger and smaller to create a range of sizes) from a single base size rather than two or more base sizes. Once success is achieved with the first size range, other ranges may be added later, if desired. An exception to this might be with production of a single product, such as a single style of culottes or swimwear. If a handful of the same styles are produced year after year, then it would be economical to invest in initial development of several base patterns and grading for multiple size ranges. However, when selecting a size range for fashion that changes seasonally, the following considerations apply (North American sizing is cited here, but the same comments on shape are valid to other international sizing systems):
- Babies - Modesty is not much of an issue for babies, and plenty of full-coverage clothing exists for them in the market, so designs for this category should be based on some advantage other than modesty.
- Girls' 2T to 6X - The primary concern for modesty with girls' clothing in the 2T to 6X range is length of skirts and dresses. Rather than manufacturing an exclusive line for this size range, entrepreneurs might want to ask if clothing from other retailers could be cheaply sourced and then panels or ruffles used to lengthen the hemlines. If not, then consider a size range centered around a 3T or 5 base size, extending anywhere from 2T to 6X. The grade should not extend beyond 6X, because a girl's dimensions begin to dramatically alter after this, requiring an additional base pattern or extensive grading work. Sales of modest clothing for this size range may not be strong as a result of style and price competition from large manufacturers and thrift stores. Matching mother-daughter outfits may boost sales for this category, since modest clothing for women is harder to find, making modest matching sets rare.
- Girls' 7 to 16 - The older girls' size range shares almost the same dimensional shape as the juniors, possibly making this a better size range than juniors for small entrepreneurs to use in targeting pre-teens and teens who are seeking trendy clothing with a modest edge. An older girls' size range typically utilizes a base size 10 and is graded down to size 7 and as far up as a size 16. Most manufacturers actually stop their older girls' size ranges at 12 or 14, since the girls' 14 and 16 sizes overlap into the juniors' and misses' dimensions. For a small manufacturer utilizing just one base pattern, a size range of 7, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16 is worthwhile.
- Juniors' 1 to 13 - "Modest clothing for juniors" was the most popular size-related modest clothing search term leading to the original Fashion Belle website from 2010 to 2024 prior to site redesign focusing on our own sewing patterns. Part of the reason for this may be that juniors are the most trend sensitive of any age category, and most of the modest clothing available on the market today is classic in style. It could be that women who fit better into a misses' size range are searching for "modest clothing for juniors" to find updated style rather than the slimmer fit offered by the junior range. The other possibility is that so few modest clothing manufacturers target junior sizing that teens in that range don't have many options. A juniors' size range fills in the odd numbers opposite a misses' range, for example, 1, 3, 5, 9, 11, 13. Junior dimensions fit a straighter figure than misses', so some teens may have developed a womanly figure early enough that they may not fit comfortably into juniors' sizes. Because of the overlap of juniors' sizes with misses', it is worthwhile to consider choosing between either girls' 7 to 16 or a misses' size range to appeal to more customers. You can still create trendy styles that appeal to juniors and take a misses' size range down to 0 or 00 to include juniors, but staying with a misses' or girls' size range will help capture more of the market overall. The exception would be if you have a very clear marketing concept to reach wearers of the slim junior silhouette. The market is open for modest brands with short manufacturing turnaround times that can capitalize on trends of the moment, and that applies to all size categories, not just juniors.
- Misses' 0 to 16 - The misses' range has expanded over the years to cover sizes 0, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16. Many brands add an 18, but the 18 overlaps into what would be called a 1X, or the beginning of the plus size range.
- Women's 16W to 34W and Beyond - Getting the right style is important for this size range. Some companies focus on custom sewing for this range, since weight becomes more uniquely distributed as the size increases. Many women who are of normal, adult weight find that the lower part of this size category is the correct fit especially when it comes to bust shaping, yet the designs are lacking in style. More brands have recognized the untapped potential of this market in recent years and have expanded to address the need, though the market still remains wide open in this category for all types of styles.
Fit your business plan to your budget
With creativity, some type of modest clothing business can be launched on any budget, from custom-made outfits for individual clients to mass production of dozens of items for sale internationally. Determine your budget first, then pick your plan. Business licensing, accounting and tax requirements vary by location and should be investigated prior to the start of any commercial endeavor. The following are examples of business plans utilizing small to moderate levels of funding:
- Custom sewing - With the investment of a sewing machine, serger, business cards and low-cost online publicity, a seamstress with adequate skill can begin a business sewing from home or by contract through a local clothing or bridal shop. Collect at least half of the fee prior to starting and communicate clearly with clients to establish expectations. Clients should understand that one or more fittings prior to picking up finished garments will be required. Working for individuals can be both rewarding and frustrating. Brides are notorious for indecision and may demand additional work, even if a seamstress has followed original instructions precisely. A seamstress should always receive payment for any work beyond what was initially requested, making a signed contract at the beginning of an expensive project beneficial. Only those seamstresses prepared to collect adequate fees while dealing with indecisive clients should consider a career in custom work. Marketing a specialty, such as "alterations for modesty" or "modest bridal and formal wear sewing," will build a reputation for skill in working with modest styles.
- Local Boutique Sales - Although this avenue is on the wane due to increased retail theft in the United States and closure of bricks-and-mortar stores in favor of the ease and safety of online sales, local, high-end clothing boutiques may still offer avenues for selling custom clothing. Boutiques often appreciate the chance to feature merchandise that has a regional flair or that is different from anything available in department stores. Sales of this type may be done through consignment or on an account basis, where the boutique pays the wholesale price up to a specified number of days after delivery (for example, 30 days later or "net 30"). Most commercial sewing patterns are not licensed for use in production for retail, so the patterns must be original. Quantities are small enough for this type of distribution, usually a dozen or fewer at a time, that fabric may be purchased by the yard in stores or online and sewn at home by one person. Boutique prices in the United States range in the hundreds to thousands of dollars per item, allowing for an adequate profit margin for both the seamstress and the storefront.
- Web Sales - In addition to an individual e-commerce site, many options are available in the digital age for setting up digital storefronts on social media and elsewhere. The drawback of online clothing sales for small businesses is that returns for sizing issues or buyer fraud (wearing and then returning) could make solvency a battle. A one-person sewing business should aim to create styles that command prices that comfortably cover materials, labor, marketing and profit. Some online clothing stores enforce a "no returns" policy or a "return to customer" policy if the garment has been worn, something that is not popular with shoppers but may contribute to keeping a small business afloat.
- Trade Show Sales - As a step up from local boutiques, apparel trade shows are the traditional method of taking orders for garments that will be produced and then delivered to stores. The book The Entrepreneur's Guide to Sewn Product Manufacturing by Kathleen Fasanella outlines traditional best practices in this process, though be aware that the market has shifted somewhat since the book was written. As the Internet continues to change the way we live, trade shows are suffering from fewer attendees and some manufacturers have turned to online wholesale marketing to save the cost of exhibiting at shows and to be more effective in generating orders. If exhibiting at a trade show is not something that a small entrepreneur wants to tackle alone, traveling sales representatives can be hired to present a collection along with others in the rep's portfolio during road trips or at trade shows. Sometimes it may be necessary to find several sales representatives from different regions around the nation for the best area coverage. Also be aware that as bricks-and-mortar retailers are suffering from increased theft and lower foot traffic, the contracts offered to manufacturers have gotten worse, even to the point where unsold merchandise may be returned for a refund or merchandise may be displayed on consignment only. Heading into the future, the market seems to look brightest for manufacturers who find ways to reach customers directly.
- Runway Shows - Because of the expense of staging runway shows, these are the territory of designer brands, and they remain the choice method for generating social buzz and reaching buyers for high-end clothing stores and wealthy individual clients. Variations on the runway show have proliferated as the global economy has fluctuated and designers have looked to scale back on expenses during some seasons. Video productions and small party showings, where models mingle with guests, are less expensive alternatives. Most brands that stage runway shows also produce less-expensive collections that capitalize on the brand image created by the shows, allowing the company to write off financial losses from the show for marketing purposes.
- Retail Store - If you are a home-based designer, operating a bricks-and-mortar store may take away too much time and financial investment from designing your own apparel collection to justify it. With enough good employees, however, and the right location in a city with controlled crime and a customer base that appreciates your style, a retail store can build the profile of your brand and lead to profitable franchises. The prospect for profitable retail stores may continue to decline as time goes on and in-store theft increases almost everywhere across the United States, so exercise caution, stay updated with market news, and first consider if online sales may be a better alternative. Some retail stores are fighting retail theft by implementing a members-only shopping policy where admittance is checked at the door, receipts are checked against merchandise on the way out, and every shopper's personal profile is logged. Alternately, some stores keep merchandise in secured areas and assign attendants to help customers with each item, and other stores are limiting traffic to appointment only. Any one of these ideas for security or others might be beneficial to an entrepreneur considering launching an in-person shopping experience for a new clothing brand.
- Sewing Patterns - Without investment into production fabric or sewing labor, it is possible to produce a variety of styles each season while relying on the home sewer to modify the modesty, fit and fabric to meet her needs. The drawback of this avenue is that few people sew, making the niche for modest sewing patterns extremely small.
Find Reliable Fabric Sources
If any pitfall awaits the inexperienced clothing manufacturer, it will probably be fabric sourcing. Fabric ordered from an unreliable source may never be delivered or may be delivered with a quality inferior to the sample yardage. Small manufacturers should consider the following guidelines:
- Design initial collections around as few different fabrics as possible to achieve the yardage needed for a wholesale fabric order (usually 1,000 yard minimum).
- In the beginning stages of a business, try to work with fabric suppliers that offer stocked fabric programs. This may reduce the required minimum order and will ensure that fabric will be delivered on time with the same quality as sample yardage. Fabric problems early in business development can threaten the survival of a new business.
- Small manufacturers may want to source fabric by the yard through the nearest fabric outlet. Fabric outlets exist in major cities worldwide and often carry overruns of fabric from designer labels. The number of outlets is on the decline with the rise of the internet, so delving into the online sampling and ordering process may be of benefit, as well.
- Before contacting wholesale fabric suppliers, you should have a budget to cover a minimum wholesale order and you should know what type of fabric you seek. Suppliers offer sample quantities of yardage for sale, and if you like the fabric after working with it or if you take orders based on designs constructed from the sample fabric then you can place a large order.
- Fabric trade shows expedite introductions to dozens of fabric suppliers, though the travel to shows can be expensive. If attending a trade show is not possible, then contact fabric offices directly using resources such as Fashiondex or other online searches.
Use Local Labor
Communication is enhanced when designers and manufacturers are local to one another. This is why apparel design offices are concentrated around manufacturing centers such as New York and Los Angeles. As mass production of apparel has shifted overseas, large companies have developed precise systems of communication to prevent errors, yet none are quite as good as being in person, which is why technical designers still travel regularly to offshore manufacturing locations to inspect quality. A small manufacturer working from a home office, far from a major apparel center, may think that utilizing distant patternmakers and factories is the only option. In reality, much can be done to energize local sources of labor. Doing so will invigorate the local economy, reduce shipping costs and increase vital communication between the designer and manufacturer. Current trends in apparel manufacturing are to return some offshore production to local sources for these reasons.
Small manufacturers must watch inventory costs closely, and local labor allows clothing to be produced as it is ordered. Some small businesses in the United States use local seamstresses to sew custom-ordered clothing with a delivery window of several weeks. This is the "pull" system of lean manufacturing that keeps inventory investment to a minimum. A "push" system stockpiles inventory that is then pushed onto the customer with aggressive marketing. The customer is given more freedom in a pull system to specify exactly the product that is desired.
Patterns, Samples and Production
For entrepreneurs who would like to hire out all patternmaking, sample sewing and garment production, check into services that provide all three under one roof to help reduce cost. To find companies like this, search for "patterns, samples, production," and for starters, take a look at Left in Stitches and Accurate Services.
Continually Improve
Especially in this digital age, technology is rapidly changing what can be done in apparel manufacturing and marketing. Implement a continuous improvement strategy in your business to stay informed of advances. Ongoing education has largely moved online, but in-person trade shows are still excellent avenues for making connections if funds allow for travel. Evaluate the benefits of potential improvements and new suppliers and implement what works for your business.
Of course, the specifics of starting your own apparel-related business will far extend the topics covered here. Be courageous and jump in to the process. Pray for guidance and blessing. Especially for those who seek to promote modest clothing, this is a worthy endeavor with vast possibilities as a niche market that is overlooked by the large manufacturers.
Defining Modest Clothing is Challenging
The modest clothing market is complex. Marketing to one group may mean excluding another due to differing definitions of "modesty," and the overall target is already small. Some women who enjoy dressing relatively modestly, especially when presented with options that are modern as well as modest, may recoil from any clothing outright labeled "modest" because of the normalization of the deception in popular culture that showing skin and shape is required to achieve beauty of appearance. However, in the age of the internet, removing "modest" from online marketing may obscure search ranking, causing people who are interested modest clothing to miss a modest clothing supplier altogether.
In the opinion of this author who spent about a six-year span observing the modest clothing market in the United States, it is impossible to please the modesty standards of all groups at once while being on trend enough to please the most fashion-forward members of each group. Therefore, the solution seems to be producing styles that are appealing to the individual entrepreneur and trusting that a unique customer base will grow based on those designs. It is possible to take your own slice of the market by drawing upon members from all groups including the general public.
Examples of Modesty as an Element in Apparel Design
Despite what fashion media may lead us to assume, many women of all ages and income brackets appreciate modesty in clothing paired with modern, beautiful looks. It is even common for designers who produce lines with each piece selling for several hundred to tens of thousands of dollars to include more elements of modesty within their collections than lower-priced labels. One reason is that extra fabric for coverage simply costs more. Designer fashion accommodates a generous budget for fabric, making the addition of extra yardage for modest coverage an easy task. Thick fabrics and styles with linings are also expensive. Department store labels can offer styles at low prices when the cuts are skimpy and the fabrics thin because that translates to lower material costs, the largest percentage of production outlay. Also, more expensive styles are more generally affordable to a mature customer who may prefer a relatively covered silhouette, and high-end designers keep this in mind as they create collections for marketability to that customer group.
Couture clothing is custom made with any extra length or lining requested along with the handmade details exclusive to the designer. For those who sew for themselves, fashion from designer lines usually serves as better inspiration for modest clothing than fashion from an average department store. Adding a lining or raising a neckline on a designer style is often all that may be needed to turn a look into something with enough style to be beautiful and enough modesty to be comfortable.
